Lasting and sewing machine.



A. BATES & J. GOULDBOURN- LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 27. 19l4..

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A. BATES & J. GOULDBOURN.

LASTING AND SEWlNG MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED MAR. 21.1914.

1 QQQ QWQ Patented Dec. 26, 1916.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2- ARTHUR BATES AND JOSEPH GOULDBOURN, F LEICESTER,ENGLAND, ASSIGNOBS T0 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEWJERSEY, A CORPORA- TION OF NEW JERSEY.

LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. 26, 1916.,

I Application filed March 27, 1914. Serial No. 827,595.

. To all whom it may concern:

' an in drawin s is a s ecification like reference characters on thedrawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

' This invention relates to lasting and sewing machines and particularlyto machines for lasting and sewing shoes having an outturned flange ofupper to be permanently secured to the projecting margin of the sole,such shoes being commonly known asstitch-downs or Veldtschoen. A'machine of this class is shown and described in British Letters Patentgranted to Arthur Bates, No. 4058 of 1912 and No. 15228 of 1912, towhich ref-- erence may be had for a fuller description of the machine ingeneral than is herein given.

In the machine of the patents referred to the margin of the outturnedportion of-upper is seized by pincers and drawn over a work support, thework being held against the support by a presser foot acting on thetread face of the sole margin. The work is next penetrated by the awland fed by lateral movement of the awl toward the needle. The presserfoot is released during this movement and is again brought into clampingposition after the feed movement of the work is completed to hold thematerials together for the stitch forming operation.

It is desirable that the pull of the pincers shall be under control ofthe operator so that he may determine by even gradations the extent ofthe upper pulling movement imparted by the pincers in accordance withthe re-' quirements of the work.

To this end'a feature of the invention is,

for a machine for working uppers over lasts in which the pincers havetensioning movements outwardly of the shoe and which 0perate step bystep upon successive portions of upper along the edge of the last, theprovisionof means under control of the operator'for varying by-evengradations during the operation of the machine the extent of outwardpull imparted to the upper by the pincers. In a convenient constructionin accordance with the present invention the mechanism for imparting theupper pulling movement to the pincers comprises a yield- -ingly operatedmachine element that is cou-,

pled to the pincers and has its movement l mited by a stop so as todetermine the outer limit of the pulling stroke of the pincers. Th1sstop is movably mounted and means under control of the operator isoperatively connected with the stop by which he may, during theoperation of .the machine, shift the position of the stop, so that themovement of the spring operated machine element 1s arrested sooner orlater, and consequently the pull of the pincers is shorter or longlgraccordmg to the requirements of the wor In Veldtschoen the margin of theupper,

which is turned outwardly at the forepart and shank portions, is usuallyturned inwardly at the heel portion of the shoe, but in certain kinds ofVeldtschoen the margin of the upper is turned outwardly all around thesole margin. In lasting the latter kind of Veldtschoen it is desirablethat the upper shall not be pulled by the pincers at the heel portionand it is accordingly an object of the invention to provide means forenabling the action of the pincers to be suspended when this portion ofthe shoe is reached.

As a feature of the invention, therefore, the pincers are given amovement away from the shoe and out of-operative position after theirupper pulling movement has been varied progressively, and means undercontrol of the operator is provided for suspending the action of thepincers when certain portions of the shoe are reached in the action ofthe machine upon the shoe or when otherwise desired. A convenient meansfor arresting the action of the pincers upon the upper is by removingthem from the vicinity of the up or and this may be eifected by formingt e above mentioned spring-operated machine element in the form of alever changing cam-may be formed on .the same part or otherwise arrangedto move together, so that a single part, such as a lameo erated lever,may be used to control both cl them by connected devices which impart tothe two cams successively their operative movements. In such a case, thecams will be so timed in relation to one another that the operator bymoving the said single part may alter the upper pu ling stroke 0 thepincers and also by further or differently moving the said part maythrow the pincers out of action. It has also been found desirable, inorder to obtain the full eifect of the pulling or lasting action of thepincers, that the pincers be unimpeded in their action by the pressureof the presser foot upon the work during the tensioning movement of thepincers; and accordingly, as a feature of the invention the work isfreed during the tensioning operation and preferably this is effected byreleasing the pressure of the presser foot during the pulling movementof the pincers and reengaging the work to hold it firmly during thepenetrating movement of the awl and while a stitch is being formedtherein. Preferably, and as usual, the presser foot is again releasedduring the feed of the work and is maintained in clamping engagementwith the work during those portions of the cycle in which the work isbeing neither tensioned nor fed.

A convenient embodiment of the presentinvention will now be described asapplied to a machine of the kind disclosed in the atents beforementioned, but it is to be unerstood that the invention is not to beconsidered as limited to the particular construction described but thatit may be embodied in other constructions without departing from thespirit of the invention.

In the drawings,Figure 1 is a side View, partly in section, showingparticularly the pincers and their operating mechanism; Fig. 2 is asimilar view on a different plane showing particularly the presser footand its operating mechanism; Fig. 3 is a detail view of the pincer.stroke changing mechanism;

and Fig. 4 is a detail view of the knee lever and its connections.

The machine comprises a base 2 on which is secured a head 4 on which ismounted a work rest 6 arranged to extend into the angle or creasebetween the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole.Pincers 8, 10, for seizing the up er and pulling it about the last anaround the said work I support are provided, and a stitching mechanismcomprising an awl 12, needle 14, presser foot 16, thread lifter l8 andlooper 20, is provided for securing the edge of the.

upper to the projecting mar in of the sole. A cam 22 upon the main shafchine is operatively connected with the pincers 8, 10 so as to causethem to grip the upt 24 of the mathat forms part of the pincers and itsother end' pivotally connected with a block 30 that is mounted to slideupon a rod 32 'opera- 3 tively connected with the cam 22 on the mainshaft 24. The block 30 is moved yieldingly in the direction that causesthe lever to draw the pincers rearwardly, by a spring 34 which surroundsthe rod and bears at one end against the block and at the other againstan adjusting nut 36 threaded upon the rod.

A stop 38-is provided that by engaging the lower extremity of the lever26 limits the rearward or upper pulling movement of the I pincers. a

In'the use of the machine it is found that better results are obtainedif the upper is pulled by. the pincers to different extents at diderentparts of the shoe, for example it is found that more pulling of theupper is nec-v r essary when rounding the toe portion of the shoe thanat other portions. In accordance with the present invention means istherefore provided to enable the operator.

readily and progressively to vary the pulling stroke of the plncersduring the operation of the machine and to this end, in the constructionherein described, the stop 38 aforesaid instead of being locked inadjusted position in the machine frame,,as in the prior constructions,is adapted to slide therein and is provided with means for shifting itto vary the rearward movement of the pincers. that is mounted inguideways in the machine frame 4 so as to be capable of slidingvertically therein. Formed in the plate is a cam slot 54 which receivesa stud or roll 56- mounted upon the-lower end of a lever 58 that ispivoted about midway between its ends upon the machine frame at 60. The

This means comprises a plate 50 hole in this block the rear end of thestop 38 above mentioned is screwed. The stop slides loosely in its seat64 in the machine frame so as to prevent binding of the parts.

The above described arrangement is such that when the plate is at thelower limit of its travel the stop is withdrawn to its miximum distancefrom the end of the lever that operates the pincers so that the pincerswill be allowed to have their maximum rearward or upper pullingmovement, and as the plate is raised the stop will be moved toward thesaid lever to shorten the rearward motion of the pincers.

. provided, in the construction herein To raise and lower the plate 50.theredis escribed, a lever 70 that is adapted to be actuated. by theknee of the operator. This lever which is pivoted at 72 to the machineframe about midway between its ends, has

at its rear end a socket into which a stem 7 6' projects. A second stem7 8 secured to or formed integral with the first-named stem and locatedat right angles to it enters a socket in one arm 80 of an elbow leverpivoted at- --82 upon the machine frame. The other arm 84 of the elbowlever is forked to receive a connecting rod 88'to which it is attachedby a pin 86. The upper end of the rod 88 is connected by a joint '90 tothe lower end of therplate fiO aforesaid; To limit the movement ofthe'knee-operated lever 70 two stops -92, 94, Fig. 4, are provided uponthe ma- -"chine frame,*one oneither'side of thelever, v and either orboth of these stops may consist" of a pin 94 arranged to be inserted inany one of a series'of holes formed in themachine frame, so that thelimits of the movement. of the lever may be adjustably predetera mined.

. forms the hearing about whichthe pincer-.

In orderthat the knee-operated lever may .be retained in the positionsinto which it has been moved by the operator, the lever has screwed uponor otherwise secured to it on its lower side a plate 96, Fig. 1,, whichhas a series of recesses formed init. These re- 'cesses are adapted tobe engaged by a spring plunger 98 that is mounted in the machine framebelow the plate and has a conical head that is adapted to snap intowhichever recess ismovedoverit..v

As hereinbefore'explained, it is necessary occasionally. to suspend theaction of the pincers upon the work during the operation of the machine.To this "end, in the construction herein 'described,- the. plate 50aforesaid is provided with a second cam slot-100 which receives aroller,,102 mounted upon one arm 104 of an elbow lever. that is pivotedto the machine frame at '106, the other arm 108 .of the leverbeingconnected by a link 110 with an eccentric sleeve 112, Figs. 1 and 3,that is mounted upon a rod...

114 in the machine frame. This sleeve operating lever 26 swings, thearrangement being such that when the plate 50, is liftedtoits upperlimit the elbow lever 104, 108,

will be turned upon its/pivot and by its connection with the sleeve 112will rotate it upon theshaft 114 so as to move'the lower endof thepincer-operating lever rearwardly and withdraw the shoe upper.

It will be noted from the foregoihg'that' upward movement of the platethrows into action the mechanism which renders. the pincers moperativeand as this movement of the plate also moves the stop aforepincers outof reach of the said toward the pincer-operating lever the cam slot thatmoves the stop is provided with an additional upper branch which afterthe plate has moved up to about the central point of itstravel'begins'to draw the stop 38 rearwardly so that it maynot interferewith the rearward movement of, the lower end of-the pincer-operatinglever 26 due to the tuming of the sleeve 1 12. In order that themovements of the plate 50 to alter the upper pulling movement of thepincers may not throw into action the mechanism for suspending theiroperation, the slot 100 that engages the roller 102 r on the hell-crank.

lever 104 is provided with an'upr ight portion which when the roller istraveling in it imparts no movement to the elbow lever.

In the operation of the machine the oporator will. present the shoe tothe machine I i in position for the pincers to seize the upper and forthe "sewing devices to secure the upper and sole together. As thelasting and sewing progress along the sole edge, the operator, bymeans-of theknee-operated lever 70, will shift the verticallyslidingplate 50 .to alteras required the upper pulling movement of thepincers. When operating upon pincers is not desired at the heel portionthe operator, on arriving at that portion,

will swin the lmee-operated lever a dis- 1 a stitch-down in which theaction of the l tance su cient to raise the plate to'its tions abovedescribed, will retract-the stop 38 to its rearmost limit and will movethe pivot 'of the pincer-operating lever rear- Wardly, causing thepincers to be moved out of range of the upper and bringing the lower endof the pincer-operating lever into engagement with the stop so'thati thesaid lever will have no movement imparted to it,

highest extent. This, through the connecthe action of the cam on themain shaft merely compressing and releasing the spring 34 through whichforce trans} mitted from it to thelever.

. -Further novelty resides in the press er foot operating mechanism. Bythis inven tion, the presserfoot is released during that portion .of thecycle when the pincers is given its upper tensioning movement, and,

hence, the full effect of that movement upon the upper is secured. Thepresser foot 16 is formed on a lever 120, Fig. 2, fulcrumed at 122 andhaving at its rear end ratchet teeth 124 with which cooperates aspringpressed locking pawl 126, Fig. 3, mounted on the machine frame; Anarm 128 loose on the shaft 122 carries teeth 130 which cooperate with anoperating pawl 132.. A rod 134 is pivoted to the rear arm of thelever120 and passes through an ear 136 on the arm 128. On the rod 134 abovethe ear 136 is arranged a spring 138, 'the'tensio'n of' which iscontrolled by a nut 140. It will now be clear that upward movement ofthe arm 128 will be transmitted through the spring 138 to the presserfoot 16. Movement of the arm 128 is effected by the operating pawl 132mounted on a lever 142 which is fulcrumed to the machine head at 144 andcarries a roll secured thereto at 146 which rides in a groove 148 of acam block 150 on the main shaft 24 of the machine. With the parts in theposition shown in Fig. 2, the forward or left hand end of the lever 142is raised and the pawl 132 has engaged the teeth 130 and thrust thepresser foot 16 into engagement with the work where it is held until theportion of the cam path 148 located between the points a. and b isreached, when the forward end of the lever is lowered to release thepresser foot. The lever 142 not only releases the pressure of the pawl132 upon the ratchet 130 but by its downward movement hits a tail on thepawl 126 which holds the presser foot locked in position upon the work,and disengages it from the teeth 124. lhe presser foot is then held tothe work only by a light spring 152 which presses upwardly upon a frame154 pivoted at 156 to the presser foot lever 120, see Fig. 2. Thisaction of the cam 148 occurs at the time when the pincers has seized theupper and is pulling it toward the right in Fig. 1. At

this time the cam 22 has closed the pincers and forcing it toward theleft to effect, through the spring 34, the tensioning of the upper. Assoon as the tensioning movework holding position where it is held untilment by the pincers is completed, the point Z) of the cam path 148 isreached and the pawl 132 is again actuated to engage the teeth ,130 andforce the presser foot into the point a of the cam path is reached whenthe presser foot is again released to permit feeding of the work by theawl 12 which, at that time, is given a lateral movement by actuation ofan awl carrying slide 158, as is fully described in the patents referredto.

When the feed of the work is completed, the

point a? of the cam path 148 has been reached by the roll on the lever142 and the presser foot is thereupon actuated to hold the work duringthe remainder of the cycle.

Having described our invention, what we claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent of the United States is:-

1. In a step-by-step type of lasting ma chine, the combination ofpincers and operating mechanism for causing the pincers to seize andpull an upper, means for shortening the pulling stroke of the pincers,additional means for rendering the pincer movements ineffective, asingle controller for said two means, and a lost motion connectionbetween the controller and the second means to delay the operation ofthe latter while the first-mentioned means is op erated.

incense 2. In a step-by-step type of lasting machine, the combination ofpincers and operating mechanism for causing the pincers to seize andpull an upper, of adjusting means for changing the pulling stroke of thepincers first by progressively shortening the stroke and thereafter bytransferring both extremes of the stroke farther from the work.

3. In a step-by-step type of lasting machine, the combination withpincers and operating mechanism for causing the pincers to seize and.pull an upper, of ad usting means for changing the pulling stroke of thepincers first by locating the point of termination closer to the workand later by locating the point of beginning more remote from the work.

4. In a step-by-step type of lasting machine, the combination of pincersand operating mechanism for causing the pincers to seize an upper andmove in a plane substantially parallel with the plane of the shoe bottomto pull the upper, said mechanism including a lever and an actuatortherefor, and meansfor shifting the fulcrum of the lever to withdraw thepincers along said plane from position to seize the upper.

5. In a step-by-step type of lasting machine, the combination withpincers and operating mechanism for causing the pincers to seize andpull an upper, of means for regulating the length of the pullingmovement, means for changing the fulcrum of the pincers, and connecteddevices for imparting to said two means successively their operativemovements.

6. In a step-by-step type of lasting machine, the combination withpincers and operating mechanism for causing the pincers to seize andpull an upper, of a stop for regulating the length of the pullingmovement, a cam and connections for operating the stop, meansconstructed and located for convenient actuation by one of the operatorslegs and adapted for adjusting the cam while the machine is running toshorten the pulling movement of the pincers, and additional meansbecoming operative to withdraw the pincers from operative relation tothe work after the cam has reached the limit of its throw for shorteningthe pulling the operators legs whereby the operator can progressivelylimit the length of the pulling movements of the pincers in accordancewith the requirements of difierent portions of the shoe, and additionalmeans by which the pincers may be removed from position to seize theupper.

9. In a step-by-step type of lasting machine, the combination withpincers, and opcrating mechanism for causing the pincers to seize andpull an upper to prepare it to be fastened, of fastening mechanism tosecure the upper, and means constructed and located for convenientactuation by one of the operators legs whereby the operator canprogressively limit the pulling movement-of the pincers and if desiredcan discontinue the efl'ective operation of the pincers in accordancewith the requirements of different portions of the shoe while theoperators two hands are occupied in manipulating the shoe and thefastening mechanism is running to secure the upper whether or not it ispulled. I I

10. In a step-by-step type of lasting machine, the combination withincers and operating mechanism for causing the pincers to seize and pullan upper, of means constructed and located for convenient actuation byone of the operators legs whereby the operator can progressively limit,while the machine is running and his hands are occupied in manipulatingthe shoe, the length of the upper pulling movement effected by thepincers in accordance with the rplquirements of diiferent portions ofthe s oe.

11. In a machine of the class described, the combination of shoe restingmeans, pin cers arranged to tension the upper in a direction away fromthe resting means, and means under manual control for progressivelyvarying the length of the tensioning pull of the pincers while themachine is in operation and adapted upon further actuation to withdrawthe pincers out of operative position.

12. In a machine for working an upper over a last, the combination ofpincers acting to seize and tension the up er about the last, a leverconnected to the plncers, means comprising a resilient connection foroperatingthe lever, a stop arranged in the path of movement of thepincers for arresting their movement away from the last, and. means forprogressively varying the position of the stop while the machine is inoperation.

13. In a machine for working an upper.

over a last, the combination of a .work support, pincers for seizing andtensioning the upper, resilient means through which the pincers areoperated by power, a stop located in the path of the operating means ina position to arrest movement of the pincers in a direction laterallyaway from the last, and means under the control of the operator forprogressively varying the position of the stop.

14. In a machine for working an upper overa last, the combination ofpincers for seizing and tensioning the upper, an operating lever for thepincers, a stop mounted for sliding adjustment in the direction of thepincer movement and into the path thereof to arrest that movement, andmanually controlled means to hold the stop in adjusted position.

15. In a machine for working an upper over a last, the combination ofpincers for seizing and tensioning the upper, power means for operatingthe pincers to andfrom the work including resilient means through whichthe tensioning pull is effected, a stop mounted for movement in the samedirection as the pincers for arresting their movement, and manuallyoperated means movable at right angles to the movement of the stop forholding it against movement by the pincers.

16. In a machine for working an upper over a last, the combination ofpincers for seizing and tensioning the upper, power means for actuatingthe pincers to and from the work including resilient means through whichthe tensioning pull is effected, a knee lever, a movable cam plate,connections between the knee lever and the cam plate, and a stopactuated by the cam plate to and from the path of the pincers to arresttheir movement in varying positions relatively to the work.

17. In amachine for working an upper over a last, the combination withpincers for seizing and tensioning the upper, ower means for actuatingthe pincers to an from the work including resilient means through whichthe tensioning pull is efiected, a slidable stop for limiting theirmovement, a cam plate mounted for movement by the operator while themachine is running, and operating connections between the stop and theplate for holding the stop against movement by the pincers.

18. In a machine for working an upper over a last, the combination ofpincers for seizing and tensioning the upper, a pincer lever foractuating the'pincers to and from the work including resilient meansthrough which the tensioning pull of the pincers is effected, a kneelever, a movable cam plate,

connections between the knee lever and the cam plate, a stop actuated bythe cam plate to and from the path of the pincers to arrest theirmovement in varying positions P relatively to the wet, Tania-amt for thepincer lever, ancl lconnectionsbetween thecaln plate and,,=th'e fulcrumfor moving the-fulcrum when. the; knee lever is operated.

19. In a step-by step of lasting ma-- chine, the combination of pincersand oper-,

ating-mechanism for causing-the pincers to seize and pull the upper in aplane substantially parallel to the plane of the sole, the eccentricsleeve 112, and a knee lever and connections whereby the sleeve 112 may'be rotated'to move the pincers farther in. the;

direction of their tensioning movemerlt- 20. In a machine for lastingand sewing shoes, the combination of a work rest, pin.- new to some andtension the shoe upper, anv

awl to penetrate and feed the work, a needle operating through the holemade by the awl, a presser foot tohold the work during the .awlpenetrating and sewing operations, and

means for releasing the presser foot during the tensioning operation.

21. A machine for lasting and sewing shoes, having, in combination, anawl feed includin fa" presser foot for clamping the margin 0 the sewingmechanism, means sole and upper of the shoe together during thepenetrating stroke. of the awl and the stitch inserting and settingoperations of the machine for lasting and sewing moaeea stitch-downshoes, having in combination,

- sewing-mechanism, work feeding means, a

work rest adapted to uphold the margin of an inverted shoe, pincers toseize and tension the upper over said rest, a presser and operatingmeans therefor cooperating with 1 the rest to clamp the margin 0'thereby to form the upper in the angle bethe shoe and tween the sides ofthe last and the margin of the sole, means for releasing the presserduring the tensioning action of the pincers,

and means for again releasing the presser during the feed of the upper.toward the sewin mechanism.

23. n a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing and workfeeding means, upper tensioning means, work holding-means normally inaction,- and means to relieve the grip of the work holding means twiceineach cycle of the machine, once during the operation of the tensioningmeans and again during the feed of the work.

24, In a step-by-steptype oflastingma chine, the combination withpincers and operatingmechanism for causing the 'pincers to seize andpullan upper, of ad usting .means for changing the pulling stroke of thepincers first by changing the point of.

termination of the stroke While the point of beginning remains unchangedand then upon further adjustment by locating the point of beginningfarther from the work.

In testimony whereof we have signed our names to this specification inthe presence of two subscribin witnesses.

A THUR BATES.

JOSEPH GOULDBQURN.

Witnesses Fnnnnmox WIILIAM WORTH, RICHARD ERNEST Gnrnmrn.

